Autumn Rock

Calum, Lizzie and I spent a weekend of dry and warm weather climbing at Dunkeld and Traprain Law. We revised loads of Trad climbing skills – placing nuts and cams, building anchors, abseiling routes and getting off crags safely. By the end of the weekend, both Calum and Lizzie were able to lead routes, and […]

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Late Summer

I’ve had busy August and September (so far!) working on Mountaineering Scotland Ready to Rock courses and also getting out climbing with various folk. I’ve been providing technical advice to various organisations I work for, and also working with South East Edinburgh Scouts as their mountain activities adviser, trainer and assessor. Some photos below!   […]

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Knotting slings and using them as lanyards – is it safe?

(Update of a post I made in 2011) I made the mistake recently of posting on UKClimbing.com. There had been some discussion about multi-pitch belays, and this deviated to someone posting about sling strength, and quoting DMM’s testing of sling strength. It’s worth watching the DMM video:   https://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/June-2010/How-to-Break-Nylon-Dyneema┬«-Slings ) My interpretation of this was […]

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Ready to Rock

I’ve been working with Mountaineering Scotland to deliver their new Ready to Rock courses. On Sunday, Michael, Michael, Iain, Ali, Chris, Gonzalo along with Alan and myself met at a scorching┬á Traprain Law to cover the basics of trad climbing. We looked at the Crag environment – environmental considerations and looking after yourself. Guide books […]

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Edinburgh Cragging

There are some fantastic venues within easy reach of Edinburgh, and some a bit further away that offer more adventurous climbing.   Traprain Law is just outside Haddington, about 25 minutes from Edinburgh, and gives some good lower-middle grade climbing in a rural setting. The downside is the crag is popular and polished. A good […]

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