Andrew was up ski touring in Glen Dochart around Meall nan Sanha today. Snow cover started at about 400m – grass showing through more or less everywhere.  Very smooth, scoured snow above 700m which allowed good skiiing.

Lee picked me up from Edinburgh Airport and we headed to the West Highlands, braving the weather. Saturday was spent in the Icefactor sharpening our technique. On Sunday we took the Aonach Mor gondola, staying away from north easterly aspects we opted for the west face. We enjoyed fantastic soft water ice, nothing like one expects to find in Scotland, much more like my native ice in Iceland.
Two good routes, which quite possibly are first ascents, both grade III.

Great day out!
Halli

Mike, Glenn and I headed up to Beinn an Dothaid today. The road up was treacherous with large patches of black ice at Strathyre and beyond.

We climbed the first pitches of West Butress, but the turf just wasn’t in good condition and the entire route was dripping. It made the going very slow, so we retreated. Lower down the mountain, however, where the turf was covered it was well frozen.

The snow pack was wet and heavy and there was evidence of sloughs.

We saw teams on Cirrus which looked good and another team headed for Taxus – however both it and West Gully were well loaded with snow.

Lee and Halli were climbing on Aonach Mor today – photos later.

Lee, Andrew and I fancied a day with little driving so we headed for Glen Ogle. There is plenty of ice dripping from all the crags. We climbed an easy frozen water course which gave us a chance to look at crampon placements. When then did some bouldering on the disused railway cuttings before heading up and climbed a three-pitch turfy icy ramp which we named “The Deer Stalker” – we thought it was about grade II. We then did some more ice bouldering and looked at ice screw placements and threads. To round the day off, we spotted a short, steep turf and ice line which gave us a 40m IV which we called “Oh Deer”.

Top day out – not cold but constant “snow drizzle” all day.

Bruce emailed me these pictures of him skiing on the bings out in West Lothian.
Weather looks superb this weekend for climbing and skiing.