Mike climbing on the Fiacaill Ridge

Mike, Gwyd, Graham and I had a weekend in the  Northern Corries looking at preparation for an alpine climbing trip. We looked at  scrambling skills on easy and moderate ground and rope systems for climbing in a two and a three, and also ways to abseil down things!

We then found some large snow patches and had a go at crevasse rescue. Still very large patches of snow around – perfect for spring ski-touring and what we were practising.

A stunning weekend of truly alpine weather.

Plenty of snow in the corries

Large crown wall on the Great Slab

Graham digging an ice axe anchor

Gwyd climbing

Andrew, Lee and I climbed “Grooved Rib” in Corie an t’Snechda yesterday. It follows the buttress between the Runnel and Crotched Gully. I gave a really nice ice cllimb on very good ice and neve with good rock gear and even ice screws!

We were in the “white room” all day – the corrie seemed very quiet and many teams seemed to be walking out as we were walking in – problems finding routes? It snowed all day – freezing level was about 700m or so, but the snow was very damp and sticky. A cold and damp day which tested my soft-shell clothing -verdict: not very good for damp Scottish conditions!

I was out with Andy and David on a EICA Ratho mountiaineering skills day on Sunday. We went onto the slopes of Meall Tarmachan and looked at movement skills using axes and crampons, before looking at constructing snow anchors and bucket seats. We then found some steep ground with some patches of ice and looked at protecting this sort of ground and tying into anchors.

A stunning day: +5 degrees at around 900m with strong, cold winds but bright sunshine. There was the odd patch of sleety drizzle. There is still extensive snow cover over 800m, but it is mostly “spring snow” and the snow pack was wet and heavy. Much eveidence of wind loading in places. That being said, the turf was completely frozen still.

Myself and George Reid had a great day skiing up Beinn Glas. The northern slope was scoured and was as smooth as a blue run! We managed a bit of heather bashing to ski down to within a hundred metres of the road
The temperature was a thaw inducing 7 degrees at the car park. A load of snow disappeared during the day on the sunny southern slopes.

Climbing yesteday at The Brack with Martin and John. Lots of wading required in places, but the snow pack here on this NE aspect was mostly stable. Elsewhere in Scotland is a different matter!

We climbed the Abyss and January Butress – the turf was well frozen on both routes and it was a stunning alpine day.